Cantonese Steamed Whole Fish
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Keeping one’s head

Get the whole story on how to prepare fish

by SCOTT JONES

Mention cooking a whole fish and the intimidation factor goes through the roof. It shouldn’t, though. Whether you’re looking for a quick weeknight dinner or something for a special weekend gathering, preparing a whole fish is easy.

Cooking meat on the bone is a longstanding chef’s secret to promote even cooking and retain moisture. According to Costco member Hunter Evans, whole fish is no different. “Using a whole fish guarantees it’s fresh, and there’s no question [that] the result is a more moist, flavourful fish,” explains Evans, the chef and owner of Elvie’s in Mississippi.

Big fish

If you’re a newbie, look for round, firm-flesh fish. Alabama-based Costco member Rebecca Treadwell Lyons, head of culinary development at eMeals, agrees. “I recommend branzino (also known as European sea bass), tilapia or trout.” Lyons says it’s best to use 681-gram to 1.14-kilogram (1½- to 2½-pound) fish, so they fit onto a rack and are easy to turn.

Costco members and food bloggers (photosandfood.ca) Nelson Cardoso and his wife, Liz, of Richmond Hill, Ontario, recommend using approximately 295 to 430 grams (0.65 to 0.95 pound) of uncooked whole fish per person.

Fish to fry

Whole fish can be cooked using a variety of methods, including grilling, poaching, roasting and frying. “The idea of grilling whole fish scares some people. Don’t be scared,” Cardoso says. Clean and season your grill, pat cleaned fish dry before grilling and flip the fish only once or twice per side, he says. First-timers, however, may prefer to start with broiling or baking. Lyons says whole fish are ideal for Asian and Mediterranean flavours.

Starting with a cleaned fish, score both sides of the fish two to four times. The goal is to just cut the skin, so go easy. Season with salt and pepper inside and out, then drizzle with olive oil. For an Asian-style preparation, try steamed whole fish (see recipe link below).

Loosely stuff the belly with combos such as fresh thyme, chopped garlic and sliced lemons; fresh dill, cherry tomatoes and Kalamata olives; or green onions, sliced ginger and sliced limes. Lay things like sliced citrus, fennel branches or rosemary sprigs on top of or under the fish while cooking for even more flavour.

When it comes to heat, Evans says smaller fish can handle higher temperatures—230 to 260 C (450 to 500 F). On the other hand, larger fish need more time to cook, so lower the temp to 190 to 205 C (375 to 400 F) to ensure the meat cooks through without burning the skin.

Check for doneness near the thickest part behind the gills and away from the backbone. The meat right on the bone should look slightly undercooked. Now’s the time to remove the fish from the heat, as the residual heat will continue cooking the fish while it rests. (Canada.ca recommends an internal temperature of 70 C/158 F.)

As for toppings, everything from compound butter to fresh salsa works. Feel free to keep it simple, too. A drizzle of high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, a squeeze of citrus and a big pinch of sea salt make the perfect finishing touch.

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