For Your Table

Know your roe

Try this tender, briny delicacy with these tips and serving suggestions

by SCOTT JONES

Throughout the ages, caviar has been associated with luxury and opulence. While caviar is not an everyday food, it’s a special occasion treat that’s worth the splurge and can be enjoyed at home without pomp or fussiness.

For those new to this delicacy, caviar is sturgeon’s salt-cured eggs (roe), historically from the Black and Caspian Seas. Today, the most widely available types—beluga, oscietra and sevruga—are produced from farm-raised sturgeon. The tender eggs, ranging in colour from black to steel grey to amber to golden, are salt-cured and then hand-packed into tins.

Sold in sizes ranging from 28 grams (1 ounce) to an entire kilogram (2 pounds), a good rule of thumb for buying caviar is to plan for 28 grams (1 ounce) per person. If you want to entertain a large party of 25 to 30 guests, go for the kilogram (2 pounds). If you’re counting calories, caviar has about 74 calories per 28 grams, along with 6 grams of fat and 7 grams of protein.

Caviar is highly perishable. Store it in the coldest part of the refrigerator and, once open, eat it within 24 hours. To serve, place the tin or jar in a bowl of crushed ice to ensure the caviar stays cold.

When eating caviar, keep it simple. Scoop out the tender eggs with a mother-of-pearl, bone or wooden spoon rather than stainless steel, which adds an unwanted metallic flavour. Roll the briny, nutty-flavoured eggs between your tongue and the roof of your mouth, allowing them to soften slightly. Then break them against the roof of your mouth for the full flavour experience.

If you want to up your serving game, use warm blinis (tiny buckwheat-flour pancakes) or low-salt potato chips as a base, then top the caviar with just a touch of crème fraîche or sour cream. Other serving options include eggs (hard-boiled, soft-scrambled), thinly sliced salmon (smoked, cured), brie and milk chocolate.

Don’t forget the drinks. Chilled vodka and brut-style Champagne are classic caviar pairings. Both cleanse the palate, readying you for another bite. Dry white wines (Chablis, Albariño) and Germanstyle Pilsner beer also work well.